Our press

"It was always shoes," confesses Gittins, whose autumn/winter 2009-10 collection officially marks the debut of her eponymous label. "I'm obsessed with research and each season touch on something I want to learn about. If I didn't design shoes, I would do something research-based."

For her collection this season, Gittins has been learning about the visual arts, taking inspiration from architecture, jewellery and textiles; designs feature fur, ruffles or, as she explains, "have an architectural edge" - by way of graphic print and trim.

"Really, I design shoes that I'd wear and be happy to wear. It's surreal and a pleasure to wake up and do what I do," says Gittins.

Sophie Gittins on Style.com, July 13, 2009

Ab Fabergé: An Exclusive Look At Sophie Gittins’ Spring Shoes

Move over, Manolo. Stiletto-loving ladies everywhere are about to fall hard —metaphorically, of course —for Sophie Gittins, a recent Cordwainers grad whose new line of skyscraping heels has already been fêted by both The Independent and Vogue in the U.K. Gittins’ debut collection for Fall, which has just arrived at www.ninaandlola.com, marries a modern, graphic sensibility to influences such as nineteenth-century Russian churches. Old and new come together again this Spring, as the designer riffs on Fabergé. “The sheer depth of thought and craftsmanship applied to each piece is staggering,” observes Gittins of the famous Fabergé eggs that inspired her Spring 2010 collection. “No part of any design was neglected, even if it was concealed or purely functional in purpose.” A similar inventiveness and attention to detail are at work in Gittins’ heels for Spring, previewed here exclusively for Style.com. While on a sourcing trip to Italy, Gittins turned up a material that, in her words, blends “moiré silk and the guilloché enamel for which Fabergé was renowned,” but that opulence is balanced by the designer’s stark silhouettes. “Each of the shoes does something different,” explains Gittins. “Like, they reveal an unexpected part of the foot, or the material is exceptional. The trick is balancing and streamlining each silhouette without sacrificing the details. With each collection, you learn more.”

Nina on JC Report, June 25, 2009

Nina May

Owner of ninaandlola.com

What's hot right now:

So far London has had an amazing summer, so you might just as well sod work, grab your friends and head for the fields—Hampstead Heath for the sheer glory of it that somehow still gives you enough space to be undisturbed whilst snogging under a big tree, and London Fields for one big party with everyone who is soon going to be anyone in fashion/design/music/art. We are wearing either old jeans cut off into tiny shorts with vintage T-shirts and boots, '80s block color (borderlining neon) outfits, lycra dresses (extra points for a leopard print), basketball trainers, clashing leggings and bras and a medium amount of striking, but day-friendly jewelry—especially by Sabrina Dehoff . Alternately, naive dresses that remind us of our childhood and our mum's house dresses, combined with pastel converse and ice-cream. Enjoy the summer while you can—we can always talk about how screwed the world is in autumn.

www.ninaandlola.com

Benoit Duvignacq on JCReport, June 16, 2009

New Designer Spotlight: Benoit Forgoes The "It Bag"

June 16th, 2009 | Paris

From design to art direction, PR to styling, Benoit Duvignacq's resume reads like a handbook on fashion career choices. Training at the prestigious ESMOD Paris school in pattern drafting and design, Benoit soon found himself at Sonia Rykiel as a communications assistant to her daughter Nathalie. After a period styling several of Rykiel's sub lines, Benoit also had a stint in the accessories design department, where he immediately felt at home. But never one to sit still, he then moved on to work with photographer Sarah Moon as an agent and stylist for her shoots for Citizen K magazine, and as an assistant to creative Director Monica Pilosio, while working freelance on press campaigns for the likes of Longchamp and Paule Ka.

Benoit finally came full circle as Art Director at SAMPLES, Italy, where he was asked to design a line of bags under his own name. And thus the Benoit Duvignacq brand was born. Craftsmanship has been featured at the top of his list from the beginning—all bags are made in France using the same factory that manufactures pieces for the likes of such impressive labels as YSL, Dior, Vuitton and Chloé. Duvignacq, however, foregoes the glamour heavy "It bag" route, choosing instead to keep things simple with a range based on simple shapes as well as precisely chosen colors and skins.

For spring/summer '09, available via www.ninaandlola.com, he continues this theme, looking towards clever uses of volume and space to create practical, comfortable unisex bags. Shapes are inspired by classic styles: the bowling bag, cabin bag, weekend carrier and the holdall in muted greys, black, plum, olive and brighter tones aquamarine, orange, red and racing green. With contrast handles, a range of skins (from goat to suede, lamb and the ultra rare perch of the Nile) and the option of a special customizing service, it looks like swapping flash for function might just be the way to go.

—Lena Dystant

Sophie Gittins in Metro, June 11, 2009

JF&Son on Elle.com, April 30, 2009

Traditionally this time of year would see us stocking up on summer skirts – but something’s changed. Now that trousers have usurped the dress in the fashion stakes,

shorts are set to be this season’s coolest staple. We’re not talking about denim hotpants here – they may be great for the beach, but they won’t really cut it in the office.

Instead, turn your attention to the chic tailored shorts that are hitting stores as we speak. Effortlessly cool boyish pairs, eighties-inspired silk styles and pretty

florals – they’re all here; just remember to keep your heel height relative to your shorts length. Just-above-the-knee shorts can be worn with flats or heels, but

The Independent, April 26, 2009

Sophie Gittins: She's hot on the heels

Sophie Gittins is an Essex girl with an eye for a nice shoe. But no jokes, please. Because the young designer is already hobnobbing with Jimmy and Manolo

You don't have to have read Sigmund Freud to know that there's more to a pair of high heels than meets the eye, but Sophie Gittins' luxurious footwear takes subtext to a new level. With inspirations ranging from architecture to Victorian scientific drawings, the 25-year-old designer is establishing herself as one to watch with her predilection for translating unusual concepts into wearable reality with a painstaking attention to craftsmanship and quality.

Not bad going considering she has so far produced just one commercial collection – but then Gittins was a star in the making even before she graduated with a First from London's Cordwainers College two years ago. In her first year her work was chosen to sit alongside designs by the footwear maestros Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik and Gil Carvalho as part of a touring exhibition of shoes, and by the time she left she had a nomination for the prestigious Marchpole Accessories Award and a place in the finals of the influential Fashion Fringe search for new iconoclastic talent under her belt.

Now, the Essex-born Gittins is hoping to emulate the success of Choo et al by striking out on her own, with a small but perfectly formed five-pair collection under her eponymous label, based in Colchester and London.

The idea behind the current designs is characteristically scholarly; Gittins had been looking at the work of the early 20th-century Viennese craft workshop, the Weiner Werkstätte, when she began to think about how she could rework the simplified geometric shapes and graphic patterns of their products into her footwear. "I am a bit obsessive about research," laughs Gittins. "It's my favourite bit of the design process – I spend days leafing through books. From there, I might do as many as 100 initial thumbnail sketches before I start making up the models to see what works in three dimensions."

If it sounds a painfully slow process, Gittins is the first to admit that indeed, it is – this collection was a full year in the making, but she says that as a first-time solo designer, she was keen to get it right: "Given the current climate, I knew I had to play the long game, which meant giving myself time to get to grips with everything properly to produce something that was as close to perfect as possible."

The shoes themselves embody that perfectionism – crafted in sumptuous fabrics such as goat suede, baby-soft nappa leather and silk organza, every stitch oozing quality.

And, crucially, they manage to look contemporary while eschewing the current vogue for exaggerated platforms, killer heels and fussy detailing that might date them. These are shoes for people who care more for design and quality than for the vagaries of fashion. "The overall feel is definitely quite classic," says Gittins, "but I think there is an edge running through it too. Each shoe has its own talking point, whether it's an unusual material or silhouette.

"For instance, the green stilettos, which are really the centrepiece of the collection, are made from a reissue of an old print that I found going through the archives at the Stephen Walters silk mill in Sudbury, which they reproduced for me in that amazing malachite shade. And the cage-like black detailing is inspired by the structure of the Werkstätte's furniture. I think it's that kind of detail differentiates my shoes."

Gittins' passion and knowledge is impressive, particularly given her age. But then this is a girl who, at 15, while friends were emptying their purses at Topshop, saved her wages from her Saturday job to buy a pair of Chanel pumps. "I wore them to death for about four years," she says ruefully. "Everyone was sick of the sight of me in them. Now they're kept sacred in their box."

Even more sacred to Gittins is the work of the early-20th-century shoe designer Andre Perugia, whose ground-breaking sculptural designs she cites as her greatest influence: "He was a complete visionary. He worked as a mechanic during the First World War so he had this amazing technical ability to create extreme, surreal shapes. He's a real shoemaker's shoemaker – I met Manolo Blahnik at the Fashion Fringe final and he told me Perugia is his favourite designer, too."

Did Gittins interpret this as a favourable omen for her own future? "I'm not sure," she smiles. "It feels such a luxury having a creative career like this, I would just like to still be here in 10 years' time. I don't mind if it's a slow burn." Yet, with orders already flying in to her website, and several high-end stockists in talks for her next collection, slow is one thing that business is unlikely to be.

Karen Karam in Daily Candy, April 21, 2009

Sugar and Spice

Karen Karam Clothing

You’re a good-time girl (but would never date a player), a feminist (who plays a convincing damsel in distress) and can work the Sister

And so has Lebanese designer Karen Karam. Her debut collection, Hardcover Candy — a colourful line inspired by jelly beans — looks

sweet as pie from the front, but a little twirl reveals peekaboo organza panels, bare backs and sexy exposed zips.

Party down in the Dentelle dress with strategically placed lace and studs or go for an all-out sugar rush with the Pink dress, which falls

JF&Son in Grazia, April 6, 2009

Lookbook of the week: JF & Son, March 27, 2009

Maybe it's because it's Friday, or payday, or we're already tired at the sight of pre summer sales popping up on the high street - but we

want to indulge in something special. Something covetable. So we'd like you to turn your attention to new brand on the horizon,

JF & Son - because not only do they produce luxe-casual pieces that'll be on your bod more than they'll languish in your wardrobe,

but they've got a resourceful, anti-recession and ethical thing going on too. And there's not a touch of hemp in sight! Now that is

some serious fashion smarts. Set up by New Yorkers Katie King and Jesse Finkelstein a year and a half ago, the brand has

developed a style full of signature sleek tailoring with ultra-fem detailing. They are simple clothes for anything but simple girls.

Think slinky fabrics, sequins (which btw are made from recycled plastic bags!) and the best everyday dresses we've seen in ages.

And ok, it's a more expensive than a trip to Zara, but these aren't transient trend pieces, they are keepers! Prices approx start £200 - £600.

Karen Karam in Harpers Bazaar, March 2009

Karen Karam in InStyle, March 2009

Karen Karam in Vogue, February 2009

Lala Berlin in Grazia, December 2, 2008

nina&lola's vintage section in The Sunday Times Style, November 30, 2008

Penkov and Fiona Paxton in Grazia, November 24, 2008

Fiona Paxton in The Times, November 12, 2008

Irwin & Jordan on JCReport.com, November 11, 2008

Shop It: Irwin & Jordan Dress

November 11th, 2008 | Global

Irwin & Jordan's "Grouche" silk cocktail dress is the epitome of effortless chic. The luxurious silk bodice and full skirt are perfectly

complemented by the contrasting cotton jersey detail in grey. Pair it with a chunky necklace and some heels for a cool, Downtown look.

Buy it for approx. $394 at www.ninaandlola.com.

Fiona Paxton on Refinery.29.com, October 17, 2008

Totally Stranded: Fiona Paxton's S/S 09 Collection

There are certain designers who make us wish we'd spent a little more time at arts 'n' crafts and a little less time necking with Bobby Delfino

behind the camp infirmary. Fiona Paxton is one such designer. The British jewelry queen known for her truly original hand-embroidered necklaces

and scarves gave us a sneak peek at her spring/summer '09 collection, "White Nights, Bright Lights," and darn it if we didn't drool

over every last piece. Paxton seems to be having a grand ol' time experimenting with new designs and textures, with her beadwork revealing

zig-zags, squares, chevrons, diamonds, and a slew of patterns that wouldn't be out of place in a game of Tetris. She's also added sexy chain-

fringed cuffs, and—along with rich, art-deco black, silver, and gold streamers—a punchy palette of blue, purple, and lime.

Fiona Paxton in The Sunday Times Style, August 2008

Our lovely Fiona Paxton had not one, but two pieces in the recent Sunday Times fashion bonanza - the black/silver Coco and the silver Sylvie necklace.

William Tempest, Sunday Times Style, August 31, 2008

William Tempest and the Fashion Fringe Finalists, ES Magazine, August 2008

Olanic in Company, August, 2008

Draper's Record Blog, August 7, 2008

Who took your online fashion cherry?

You may be surprised to hear this, but until last week I had never bought any fashion online.

I'm not quite as suspicious as my mum and am happy to have a go on Amazon for CDs and gadgets, but when it comes to clothes and shoes, I really need

to get up close, touch them and know that the things I'm buying (call me old fashioned) fit. The prospect of returns seems like too much hassle and I guess

Well that was until last week when I happened upon www.ninaandlola.com. The belated, evolutionary jolt in my shopping habits that ensued took me quite

by surprise and the whole process taught me a few lessons in how to get a cynical, marketing-savvy, bargain-hunting fashionista onside.

The main reason I was drawn to the site was the tone of voice. It was warm, informed and friendly - wonderfully normal. No spin or marketing spiel. Then after

that, there was the quirky choice of products, from specially chosen vintage to a whole host of small designers I had vaguely heard of but hadn't seen

The site was set up so I could mine instantly through to what was relevant – so in my case it was 'sale' and then 'size.' The choice immediately decreased to

a manageable 10 things. All it took was three clicks in three seconds and I now had a big crush on a Peter Jensen Skirt. There were no flat shots but some products

had catwalk snaps and all were modelled on the vintage mannequin "lola" so you could see how items actually looked on. It made the difference between a sale

In addition to this the account set up and payment was incredibly quick. I was emailed instantly with a picture of my purchase and all the delivery details laid

out simply. Again the personal tone straight from Nina's mouth, was everything and probably the closest online experience to being in a boutique you are likely to find.

William Tempest on JCReport.com, June 17, 2008

Fiona Paxton on JCReport.com, May 28, 2008

Strung Out

We're stringing together a new jewelry trend—textile-inspired necklaces—and the latest designer to keep an eye on in the category is Fiona Paxton.

Rather than just being about the final product, her necklaces are just as much about how they're made—in this case, using ancient techniques and

hand embroidery. The result is a small collection of eye-catching patterned pieces that also reflect her training and experience in textile design.

After graduating from the Royal Academy of Art in 1992, the designer spent 15 years working for some of the biggest names in fashion (Chloé,

Armani, and Moschino are a few). Her penchant for patterns and prints eventually led her to India, where she became fascinated with the traditional

techniques used by local artisans and craftsmen.

It's no wonder then that her first foray into jewelry is both exotic and traditional. Using modern materials like silver and gold chains, Paxton has created

wearable works of art that drape across the body in a snake-like fashion. Highlights from the first season include the Coco, a long necklace spun from

black and silver beads, as well as strands of silver chains. The Sylvie is even more complex, made up of various sized beads and materials that are layered

into one complete necklace that's more than worthy of wearing.

—Meredith Fisher

Fiona Paxton in Stella Magazine, May 18, 2008

Fiona Paxton on Vogue.com, May, 2008

Fiona Paxton

Make a Paxton

Formerly the head print designer for Chloe, Armani and Moschino, RCA-grad Fiona Paxton launched her debut jewellery collection for autumn/winter 2008-9.

Its Twenties glamour combined with intricate Indian artistry makes it unsurprising that she's such a hit with fashion's front line.

La Viande: damn cool gallery, even better shop. Directional fashion website ninaandlola.com is celebrating its first birthday with a three dimensional shop

with real clothes you can try on and everything. And my goodness, what clothes they are. The rails veritably groan with Peter Jensen’s Crayola coloured

knits and Emilio de la Morena’s ethereal shirtdresses. Also on offer are pointy, sparkly disco-dancing shoes from footwear lady du jour Georgina Goodman

and Spijkers en Spijkers’ expertly cut tunics in a host of unexpected colour combinations: peridot, garnet and tourmaline. And there’s a savvy selection of

lesser-known labels as well, like Kind, who do a smashing trompe-l’oeil tuxedo cardigan, and Richard Sorger, who makes the kind of sequin encrusted, acid bright

kaftan which would suit an aging filmstar on a Malibu poolside, but in a totally hip, ironic, clubkid kind of way. Like Chloe Sevigny in a Frank Usher jumpsuit, only even cooler.

Yep, whatever your taste, there’s a dress with your name on it. Literally, in my case: Spijkers en Spijkers’ excellent Alexa dress in black shantung silk.

There’s 10% off all stock with a flyer, and if any impecunious art school types out there are still complaining that they can’t afford the prices, I’d like to

point out that it was only Student Loan day on Monday, so if you’ve spent it all already, then you’ve only got yourself to blame. And while it might

be wishful thinking to suppose that the store’s gallery setting elevates a shopping trip into a cultural exercise, guest designer Hannah Marshall’s any-colour-

so-long-as-it’s-black sculptural dresses certainly owe a lot to architectural forms. After all, you need something to wear to private views…

Handbag.com, April 10, 2008

For all you fans of budding British design talent Hannah Marshall, here's a chance to be among the first to pre-order some of her pieces from

next season. Online shop Nina & Lola, who this month celebrate their first birthday, is opening a pop-up shop in Hoxton's La Viande gallery. As well as

stocking pieces by Marshall, the temporary boutique will also have Sandra Tietje of Bespoken on hand to discuss made-to-order pieces.

nina&lola at La Viande, 3 Charlotte Road, London EC2A 3DH. April 12-26, Mon-Sat: 11 a.m. - 7 p.m. www.ninaandlola.com Danielle Radojcin

nina&lola on JCReport.com, April 9, 2008

Nina May and her "business partner" Lola

Considering that Nina May has a mannequin named Lola for a business partner, it's fair to say that she's not your average retailer. Eschewing a

traditional approach with her e-commerce site, Ninanandlola.com, May stocks an unorthodox mix of vintage pieces (some dating all the way back

to the Edwardian era) alongside emerging labels such as Noir, Peter Jensen, Richard Sorger, Kind, Olanic, Penkov, Spijkers en Spijkers and JF & Son.

This week, to commemorate the website's first anniversary, May will open a pop-up shop at La Viande gallery in London's East End for two weeks. With the

April 12 shop launch just around the corner, we chatted with May about the importance of e-commerce for young brands, how the American recession

will impact retailers and her sundry e-tailing insights.

JC Report: Why do you stock cutting-edge designers alongside vintage merchandise?

Nina May: I believe independent designers are more interesting than those in big groups. On the one hand, they have to keep being original and

outstanding, and on the other, be very aware of what customers want. There's no big group with perfume licenses behind them that will iron out a bad season,

so the challenges to independents are much bigger. Cutting edge—it's just what I love and like to wear, and I am not the only one. Intelligent customers

who don't want to follow the fashion herd prefer something more avant-garde. They demand quality and interesting stories behind collection and

designers. And vintage—it's a way of life. When I moved to London 10 years ago, vintage was still mostly "second hand" and maybe a bit more grubby

than today. Over the past five years I think vintage has moved into the mainstream. Still, many women don't have the time or energy to go vintage hunting,

so I do that for them. My vintage selection is not aimed at collectors but at people who like to complement a designer outfit with something totally unique.

JCR: How do you seek out new talents to add to your global roster of brands?

NM: The start-up list of nine designers were mainly people I knew through the book. I met a few more through them. This may sound very selfish,

but I buy only what I love and want to wear, and so far my bestsellers have been my personal favorites, too. There are a lot of designers now who

approach nina&lola but very few are right. But then that makes it all the more exciting when I actually find someone I want to stock. It's this "oh that's why I'm doing this" moment.

JCR: How important is e-commerce to the fashion business?

NM: It gives small companies a better chance to get a foot in the market, so I think it's very important. A lot of websites, no matter if

e-commerce or just brand representation, look quite alike though, so I think there is still room for improvement to make websites as personal as they would be in a real-life format.

JCR: As a small retailer, how will the American recession affect the focus of your buy?

NM: I just bought my first American clothing label, JF & Son [full disclosure: JCR style editor Robert Cordero co-founded this label last year]. The

low dollar is amazing for us, and if there are two labels that are quite alike, the Americans have an advantage at the moment. It does, of course, pose a

problem for euro- and pound-nominated labels. At the last London Fashion Week, there were very few U.S. buyers, which was a shame. I find that

my American customers have not been deterred from buying. In fact, I sell some of my most expensive pieces, such as Hannah Martin jewelry, to the States.

JCR: You're celebrating your first anniversary this week—why mark the occasion with a pop-up shop in London?

NM: It's been the plan from the beginning to do regular pop-up shops (5 times a year). I just needed a year to get the website to where it is now. My

labels have little or no distribution in the UK, so I want to showcase them to my customers. Just come by and have a look—even if you buy later

at the website, check out the pieces and be inspired. Each shopping event will also spotlight a particular designer, collection, collaboration or occasion.

On a slightly different note, I have some of the nicest customers you will ever meet. Since I do everything myself, including customer questions and order

processing, I get to know them online pretty quickly, and then to say 'hi' is just so nice. People appreciate the personal touch, which they don't expect from a web shop.

JCR: How will the pop-up store affect your website?

NM: I did a sales shop in February, which already showed how it works: customers see new labels that they didn't know before. They love it, get to

know their size and what fits them, so they'll come back later online. I am stocking the same online as I do in the shop, so it's easy for my customers

to keep shopping even when I'm not popping up with Lola in East London.

JCR: What's next for nina&lola?

NM: The online offer will not grow massively—I don't want to have more than 30 designers (at the moment we're 25). I think it gets too confusing if it's too

big. Net-a-porter has become like Amazon—unless you know what're looking for, you're lost. I don't want that. I want to keep working with independent

designers and build the idea of the "nina&lola family," encourage collaborations with my designers, find and introduce people who could be good for one

another, and ultimately have a shop that is special to everyone involved. I also think nina&lola can do a lot in terms of product education, so that

customers learn more about quality, cut and what suits what shape, and maybe even fashion theory. It's my shop, so I guess I can sell and publish what

I want! The whole thing is based on a very organically developed idea, personal connections and a lot of gut feeling. I'm not a retailer and I do things differently as a consequence.

This interview was conducted by Robert Cordero.

nina&lola's first birthday on Vogue.com, April 2, 2008

nina&lola's Birthday on fashion156.com, April 2, 2008

Happy Returns
We’re big fans of nina&lola, the online boutique selling designers like Hannah Marshall, Hannah Martin, Spijkers en Spijkers, Olanic and Noir (as

well as a smattering of vintage)- giving a platform to buy the type of designers you swoon over in editorials but which aren’t widely sold in the UK.

Next week, nina&lola turns a big one years old and they’re opening a pop-up boutique to celebrate- not only allowing customers to buy in person but

also check out Hannah Marshall’s A/W 08 collection well before it hits the rails. It’s definitely worth a look as this is Hannah’s best collection yet, plus Sandra

Tietje from Bespoken will be at the store Fridays and Saturdays on hand to help with special orders on tailored items (apparently this pattern-cutter

extraordinaire can whip up anything you like… perhaps within, perhaps without, reason). It’s the first of an exciting string of events planned by the boutique,

each one of which will feature a preview of a designer’s collection… I can’t wait to see who’s next.

nina&lola @ La Viande, 3 Charlotte Road Hoxton, London EC2A 3DH
Nearest tube: Old Street
April 12-26
Mon-Sat: 11 a.m. - 7 p.m. www.ninaandlola.com

Posted by Elliott James Sainsbury

nina&lola on genart.org, March 24, 2008

Your Must-Have Shopping List

Insider picks for spring from 6 of the hottest emerging designer boutiques in the world!

How can we ensure that your closet is stocked with the best new items for spring? Go straight to the experts—the owners of some of our favorite

shopping spots around the globe—and ask them to share their most prized-pieces with you, of course! Read on for their fabulous finds below.

Who: Nina May of London's nina&lola
What: Olanic black heavy cotton jumpsuit
Why: "The jumpsuit is the first fresh idea for your spring wardrobe in years, probably since wedge sandals came back into fashion. This one by

Olanic suits most body shapes and can be dressed up with the highest heels for a night out or down with flats for work."

Olanic on Vogue.com, March 19, 2008

nina&lola on Vogue.com, January 31, 2008

nina&lola in Company, February 2008

nina&lola in You magazine, December 9, 2007

Hannah Martin on refinery29.com, November 29, 2007

Heart of Darkness

Jeweler Hannah Martin channels vagabonds and villains in her latest collection. By Christene Barberich

It's no longer just your boyfriend's big cozy parka you ladies will be pilfering. Designer Hannah Martin has created an entire line of jewels ingeniously intended for sharing and swapping as well as stealing.

Martin, who studied at London's Central St Martins, has more of a penchant for old-world, big-ticket statement jewels than any fragile, girlish charms of late. Designing against the current, Martin instead channels a dangerous quality into her fine pieces, turning them into what seem like beautiful badges of honor as opposed to simple talismans. Sterling spiked cufflinks, gleaming polished shackle cuffs, gem-studded rings, and weapon-worthy knuckle dusters all turn up as signatures…and those pearls for guys? Adorned with a perilous spike, they're definitely tough enough.

We spoke with the young London-based designer to find out how she draws the beauty from her fine and wicked works of art.

When did you start designing?
When I got to art school in 1999. Before that I did design, but didn't actually realize I was doing it.

Did you study jewelry specifically?
Yes, at Central St Martins [in London]. I actually didn't even know jewelry was an option until I did my foundation course. We did a 3-day module on jewelry, and I fell in love.

Your pieces reveal a real paradox of street smarts and high-style…was that approach intentional?
The idea came during a period working for Cartier. I was spending my days designing these incredible pieces of fine jewelry for women and my nights hanging out with friends in Paris watching beautiful boys play rock 'n' roll in grimy bars. It suddenly seemed clear to me that I should combine the two parts of my life.

People that are into jewelry have such an emotional reaction to it…why do you think that is?
The materials and their potential are endless, and it's exciting to know that you are creating something that someone will treasure forever. Jewelry is timeless—and each piece builds its own history and stories over time, becoming incredibly personal to its wearer. It feels amazing to know you are providing the beginning of this.

Name some influences…
Designers Rick Owens, Hedi Slimane, and Stefano Pilati, 1930s Cartier and gangster films of the same period; musicians are endless, from Mick Jagger and Bowie to Marianne Faithful and Meg White. Nick Cave is one of the coolest men alive.

Tell us about the current collection…
It's all about pirate gold and ill-gotten treasure for men with dark secrets. Jewelry for the wild and untamed! It was inspired by villains and vagabonds, the dark-hearted, the fierce and glamorous! The huge shackle bangle with orange sapphires is the anchor of the collection and personifies what I do. It's heavy, yet elegant with dark connotations, based on the shackles used in old prisons of the 1900s.

What materials do you like working with best?
Gold is my passion. It's beautiful to work with.

Okay, tell us your current theme song, in the studio or otherwise…
Right now I'd say 'Get It On' by Grinderman, a song called 'Angelina/Zooma Zooma' from the Casino soundtrack, no idea who it's by, or 'Just Like We Breakdown' by Hot Chip.

nina&lola in Look, November 19, 2007

Hannah Martin on the Hintmag blog, November 19, 2007

We had to show you what our friend and men's jewelry designer Hannah Martin is up to. This is her new H line, which, she says, is "meant to conjure an underworld of vice with its brutal beauty and darkly enigmatic glamour—a place full of gangsters, hellraisers and fallen rock stars." No wonder Vivienne Westwood and Christopher Bailey are fans of the St Martins grad who formerly worked at Givenchy and Cartier. Did we mention she's collaborated with London taxidermists McKinley & Son? The world could use more risk-takers like her.

nina&lola in the Independent on Sunday Review, October 14, 2007

nina&lola on Daily Candy, September 10, 2007

Olanic in Scotland on Sunday, September 9, 2007

William Tempest in Sublime, September 2007

nina&lola in Costume, Denmark, August 2007

nina&lola in InStyle, August 2007

Hannah Martin in The Gloss, July 2007

nina&lola in www.fashion156.com, May 31, 2007

Lisa Niven

There are times when I wonder if it is truly possible to fall in love with a piece of clothing. In the same way that little girls dream of spending their lives with the perfect man, I have longed, always, to while away the years in the company of a certain Chanel dress. However, recently my dress-monogamy has been tested. My eyes have strayed to a wonderful little online boutique called Nina and Lola where every single item has my heart beating with desire.

Nina, the founder of the boutique introduces Lola, an elegant mannequin who proudly showcases a beautiful and intelligent mix of vintage and designer clothes. Nina’s aim is to represent designers who she appreciates for their talent rather than their celebrity following, and it really shows in the wonderful selection of clothes available on the site. Designers include such hard-to-come-by labels as Kaviar Gauche, Spijkers en Spijkers and Osman Yousefzada, and the items selected are some of the best I have seen by each label. Nina clearly has an eye for what is beautiful, and her support of lesser-known talent has brought her a loyal following.

Clothes are divided into categories such as ‘Things for a lazy day in the sun’, as well as the option to search by item, by size, or when it comes to the great vintage section, by decade. Each item is modelled by Lola, then given a detailed description, as well as measurements, and details about material and condition. Indeed, every part of the site seems well thought out and comprehensible, and has the ‘cool’, independent vibe of someone who really knows clothes. I spoke to Nina about all things floral.

When browsing your site I can't help but notice that most of your floral items date back to the Fifties and other days gone by. How do you think the new florals showing up on the catwalk compare to these vintage confections?
The principal problem with new florals is that they’re around now and usually in larger quantities, and the risk of looking like a clone from an ad or bumping into the same dress in the street is naturally higher than with vintage. A few weeks ago I was on Hampstead Heath. Vogue had that week featured a floral Primark maxi-dress – and the dress was on the Heath at least three times. I felt sorry for the girls as they couldn’t walk in the dress (it’s far too long), and they kept on bumping into the same outfit behind every tree.
- For me florals are often nicer when they are a little bit pre-loved. I think both vintage and flowers can have a very cosy and loving feel to them. Think your favourite cotton shirt that’s getting softer and softer with each wash.
- Contemporary florals are very often inspired by old prints – I can show you lots of vintage prints that are very ‘Marc’ or ‘Marni’. The few designers who made the theme look fresh were McQueen and Rodarte - the latter I would actually love to work with for nina&lola. YSL was interesting, because the prints looked modern and sophisticated. My favourite ones were the Gucci printed maxi-dresses. Frida has been very good in reviving Gucci’s archive prints and giving it a cool luxury vibe.

Finally, what is the best floral piece you own?
Tough question, but I will nominate a vintage 70s YSL button-front dress. It’s got an abstract blue/brown/black print on strong white cotton. For some reason even my most fashion-illiterate male friends comment on it, so there must be something in it.

nina&lola on Modabot Avantgarde News Service, May 24, 2007

nina&lola ist ein Online Shop aus London, der junge unabhängige Designer, sowie ausgesuchte Vintage Mode anbietet. Geschäftsführerin ist die Hamburgerin Nina May, die seit 8 Jahren in London lebt, und nach ihrem Studium am London College of Fashion als Modejournalistin arbeitete.

Ihr Wechsel zum Modeverkauf vollzog sich sukzessive, seit sie sich 2005 mit dem Historiker Theodore Zeldin zusammentat, um ein Buchprojekt mit Selbst-Porträts ausgewählter Designer zu entwickeln.

Der enge Kontakt zu den Modemachern, sowie ihre Leidenschaft für Vintage Kleidung führten schliesslich zur Entscheidung, einen Internet Shop zu eröffnen, der ihr im Gegensatz zu ihrer früheren Tätigkeit die Möglichkeit bietet, sich intensiver mit Mode zu beschäftigen.

nina&lola bietet ein breites Sortiment an anspruchsvoller Mode und Accessoires von Labels wie Noir, Kaviar Gauche, Spijkers en Spijkers, Osman Yousefzada u.a., Vintage Mode verschiedener Dekaden des 20. Jahrhunderts, die humorvoll auch in Kategorien wie “Things for a night out, bumping into your ex,…” abgelegt sind.

nina&lola on Vogue.co.uk, April 10, 2007

LONDON FASHION WEEK showcased a notable wealth of young European talent this season - it seems everywhere from the Riviera to Reykjavik is producing tomorrow's big designers. Nina May, an ex-fashion student with a passion for seeking out obscure new labels, has swept the continent for Europe's best and launched www.ninaandlola.com, a quirky and unique online boutique. "This store is not about a specific demographic or about celebrity name-dropping," she says. "It's about an attitude - individual styles for independent people. Several of our designers are selling online for the first time, or have created an exclusive range just for us. Combined with our vintage and made-to-order selections, customers can really develop their own style of dressing rather than follow the herd." Among the best brands featured is Anna e Alex, a bespoke Italian jeweller which uses handcrafted Murano glass beads and vintage crystals; Kaviar Gauche, a German designer-duo who craft leather bags and floaty dresses; edgy Dutch designers Spijkers en Spijkers; Danish label Noir which went down a storm again with the press this season and finally Osman Yousefzada - the London-based Afghan who swapped banking for the catwalk in 2005 and has already appeared in American Vogue.

What the press says about us & our designers

Sophie Gittins in Elle, October 2009

Zoe Tee's jacket in The Times Magazine, August 15, 2009

Sophie Gittins on vogue.co.uk, July 22, 2009

Sophie Gittins autumn/winter 2009-10

In Sophie's Shoes